A Slow Travel Experience: Discovering the Heart of Wales Line

A Quirky and Scenic Railway Journey

This wonderfully quirky railway officially starts (or at least the English bit of it does) in Craven Arms, where the Heart of Wales Line splits off from the mainline heading to Cardiff. However, the train itself begins its journey in Shrewsbury, departing from the Grade II listed station, built in the 19th century.

As you wait for the train at Shrewsbury station, you’ll find yourself among a mix of fellow travellers—from Welsh shoppers returning from a day in town, to hikers planning circular walks or braving the full length of the Heart of Wales Trail, and the occasional commuter. There’s often just one carriage, trundling out of the station. It doesn’t take long to leave the town behind, and before you know it, you’re deep in the Shropshire countryside, passing rolling hills, farmland, and tiny rural stations that look like something from a different era.

I’ve always loved train travel. There’s something about watching the countryside roll by, sipping a coffee, and knowing that someone else is doing the driving. And living in Hopton Heath in the Shropshire Hills, with its tiny but perfectly formed railway station just a two-minute walk from my front door, means I’ve got one of Britain’s most scenic train routes on my doorstep – the Heart of Wales Line.

It’s my favourite way to travel to London. With just two changes, I can swap Shropshire’s peaceful hills for the bustle of the capital (and, more importantly, grandson-sitting duties) – without the stress of motorways. But while the Heart of Wales Line is practical, it’s also something special. It’s the kind of railway journey that makes you slow down, appreciate the views, and remember why train travel can be magical.

As well as being a fantastic way to get to Shropshire, it’s also a brilliant way to slow things down when you’re visiting the Shropshire Hills.

A Journey Through the Shropshire Hills and Beyond

As the train meanders through Craven Arms and into Wales, it’s less about the destination and more about the journey itself. This isn’t a high-speed route, and that’s the charm. It’s the perfect way to switch off, soak up the scenery, and spot wildlife – you’ll often see buzzards and red kites circling overhead or sheep staring blankly at the train as it rolls by. Or if you’re really lucky, hares chasing each other in the fields.

It’s also a fantastic route for walkers. The Heart of Wales Line Trail, a 141-mile walking route, follows the railway from Craven Arms to Llanelli, linking up with stations along the way. This means you can walk a stretch, then hop back on the train – ideal if you’re not ready for a 10-day walk.

And for even more inspiration, Visit Shropshire Hills is a great resource for finding accommodation, planning walks and exploring the area.

Waving Down the Train – The Request Stops

One of the best things about the Heart of Wales Line is its request stops. Many of the stations along the route – including Hopton Heath, my own local station – don’t automatically stop for passengers. The train guard travels down the train as each new passenger gets on, asking your destination. They then let the driver know at which stations they need to stop. If you want to get on, it’s even better – you have to stick out your hand like you’re hailing a bus.

It’s a proper old-fashioned railway experience, and there’s always that slight moment of suspense: Will they see me? Will they stop? (They always do, but I still feel oddly proud when I successfully flag down a train.)

Whilst it’s an old fashioned experience, you can still buy your tickets online in advance and show your electronic ticket to the guard. You can also purchase tickets at the main train stations of Shrewsbury and Swansea, where you’ll need a ticket to get through the barrier. But if you get on at one of the smaller stations you can use your credit or debit card to secure your ticket on board the train itself.

Exploring the Stops in the Shropshire Hills

Church Stretton: “Little Switzerland”

The first stop after Shrewsbury is Church Stretton, often called "Little Switzerland" thanks to the stunning hills surrounding it. Within walking distance of the station, you’ll find The Long Mynd, The Lawley, and Caer Caradoc—all popular with visitors and locals alike. You can see just how loved they are by checking out the Visit Shropshire Hills Instagram or Facebook page.

With plenty of B&Bs, pubs, and cafés, Church Stretton is an ideal place to stop off and explore, whether you’re looking for a day of hiking or just a relaxed wander around town.

Craven Arms: Gateway to the Hills & Stokesay Castle

The next stop on the line is Craven Arms, home to the Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre, where you’ll find riverside walks, a café, and exhibitions. A 25-minute walk from the station brings you to Stokesay Castle, managed by English Heritage and described as "quite simply the finest and best-preserved fortified medieval manor house in England."

Broome, Hopton Heath & Bucknell

After Craven Arms, the train stops at the smaller villages of Broome, Hopton Heath, and Bucknell.

At Broome, you can access a circular walk taking in Clunbury Hill and Clunton, made famous by A.E. Housman in his poem A Shropshire Lad:

"Clunton and Clunbury, Clungunford and Clun, Are the quietest places under the sun."

I’m a bit biased, but there are some lovely walks from Hopton Heath Station. A one-hour circular walk takes you to Hopton Castle, a small but historic medieval castle best known for its role in the English Civil War, when it endured a bloody siege in 1644.

To explore a bit further, the 738/740 bus from Hopton Heath connects to Ludlow. You can also pick up the same bus a few stops down the line at Bucknell & Knighton.

Crossing into Wales: Knighton & Offa’s Dyke

After Bucknell, you’ll cross the border into Wales. The next stop is Knighton, where you can walk part of Offa’s Dyke, an ancient 8th-century earthwork built by King Offa of Mercia. This 177-mile-long boundary now forms the Offa’s Dyke Path, a long-distance walking trail running from Chepstow to Prestatyn.

I won’t travel any further into Wales in this blog, as my focus is the Shropshire Hills, but if you fancy exploring the remaining 27 stations, check out the Heart of Wales line website here.

Walking the Heart of Wales Line Trail

For those who love walking as much as train travel, the Heart of Wales Line Trail offers the perfect combination of both.

This 141-mile long-distance walking route follows the railway from Craven Arms to Llanelli, weaving through the Shropshire Hills, Mid Wales, and Carmarthenshire countryside.

Several sections of the trail pass close to Heart of Wales Line stations, meaning you can step off the train and straight onto a footpath. Whether you’re after a gentle countryside stroll or a challenging multi-day hike, the trail provides a fantastic way to explore our stunning landscapes and rich history.

For more information on routes and planning your walk, check out the Heart of Wales Line Trail website

Buses on the Heart of Wales Line Route

Whilst the railway line gives you lots of access to interesting towns, villages and walks in the Shropshire Hills, you can also pick up a bus to help you explore even further.

Shropshire Hills Shuttle Bus

On spring, summer, and autumn weekends, you can also pick up the Shropshire Hills Shuttle Bus, which is perfect for exploring more walks or just enjoying one of the most scenic bus rides in the UK. It’s an excellent option for those wanting to venture further into the hills without worrying about parking, making it an ideal addition to a day out on the Heart of Wales Line.

• Runs on spring, summer, and autumn weekends

• Perfect for walkers exploring the hills

• Cash only—£2 for a single ticket or £6 for a day rover

• More info → Shropshire Hills Shuttle Bus

History of the Heart of Wales Line

The Heart of Wales Line has a history as winding as its route. Built between 1868 and 1886, it was designed to connect remote communities across Shropshire, Mid Wales, and South Wales. Like many rural railways, it faced closure during the "Beeching Cuts"* of the 1960s, but strong local campaigning and the lack of alternative transport helped it survive. Today, it’s cherished not just as a vital link for rural communities but as one of Britain’s most scenic rail journeys.

It also holds a quirky record – the longest station announcement in the world. With 34 stops, many of them request stations, the full announcement takes over two minutes to read out. It’s a perfect reflection of what makes this railway special: unhurried, characterful, and a journey to savour.

A Railway Worth Supporting

The Heart of Wales Line isn’t just a scenic treat – it’s a vital connection for rural communities. It may not be the quickest way to get anywhere, but for those of us lucky enough to have it, it’s a reminder that sometimes the best journeys aren’t about speed – they’re about the experience.

So, if you fancy a day out with a difference, or just want to see a train driver give you a friendly wave as they pull in to pick you up, the Heart of Wales Line is well worth a trip. Just don’t forget to put your hand out!

Practical Tips

Plan your trip carefully

• Make sure you check the timetable carefully. There are only 4-5 trains each way on the line daily ( less on a Sunday ). This is not a train line where you can just turn up and expect a train within the hour!

• Whilst there may be taxis waiting at the mainline stations of Shrewsbury & Swansea, if you require a taxi from another station you’ll need to book in advance.

• Make sure you book accommodation in advance and let your hosts know that you will be arriving or using the train. You can find accommodation suggestions on the Visit Shropshire Hills Website and the Heart of Wales Line Website

Station Facilities

Apart from the larger stations, you probably won’t find toilets or cafés at or near the station. If there is a café nearby they may have restricted opening times, so always check in advance.

Food and Drink

There is no restaurant car on the train, so make sure you pack supplies for your journey ahead of time.

A Scenic Route: Travel the Whole Line or Just a Section

The full Heart of Wales Line journey from Shrewsbury to Swansea takes around 4 hours and 30 minutes, meandering through rolling hills, woodlands, and remote villages at a leisurely pace. It’s not the quickest way to South Wales, but that’s part of its charm.

Many people don’t travel the full route – instead, they hop on for shorter sections, whether it’s a scenic ride to Craven Arms, a walking trip from a request stop, or a pub lunch in Llandrindod Wells. The beauty of this line is that you can take it at your own pace, stepping on and off wherever the mood (or the timetable) takes you.

* The Beeching Cuts refer to the large-scale reduction of Britain’s railway network in the 1960s, following reports by Dr. Richard Beeching, then chairman of British Railways.

The 435 Bus

This bus travels the length of the A49 road from Shrewsbury down to Ludlow, and is a good option for visiting some of the towns and villages that aren’t within walking distance of the train. One of our favourite walks is from Ludlow through the Oakley Park Estate to the Ludlow Food Shop, where you’ll find the Clive Arms restaurant with rooms, a café, and a gift shop. You can then take the 435 bus back to Ludlow (or walk back if you’re feeling energetic! To pay, use your credit or debit card as you get on the bus. )

• Connects Shrewsbury to Ludlow

• Ideal for visiting Oakley Park Estate & Ludlow Food Shop

• Pay using your card when you get on the bus

• More info → 435 bus

The 738/740 Bus

The 738/740 connects Heart of Wales Line stations, including Hopton Heath, Bucknell & Knighton, with Ludlow, providing a useful link for both locals and visitors. It’s a great option for exploring the area, whether you’re heading into Ludlow for its markets and historic castle or using the bus to access more of the Shropshire countryside without a car.

• Connects Hopton Heath, Bucknell & Knighton to Ludlow

• A great option for market days and historic sights

• Pay using your card when you get on the bus

• More info → 738/740 bus

About Karen

I was born in the Black Country, in the Heart of England, close to the Shropshire borders. After heading to London to study maths, I joined British Airways as an IT graduate straight out of university. In just four years, I met my future husband, Rob, got married, got a dog, and had our daughter, Jess—all while navigating a fast-paced career.

By 2001, managing a team of 120+ IT staff had me craving a less stressful, rural lifestyle, so we made the move to Shropshire. I turned our home into a bed and breakfast, which I ran for 17 years, also launching B&B Academy in 2006—a business I still run today, offering online training courses for aspiring B&B owners. Alongside that, I’m also the social media manager for Visit Shropshire Hills CIC, helping to promote this beautiful part of the country.